Italy · Rome

Roman soldiers on the Via Appia

  • Well, they were Italian soldiers anyway.
  • Some sections of the original Appian Way have been preserved and we visited one of them in a park on the outskirts of Rome this morning. With my spy camera, I now present evidence that the 2,300 year old road is still in use by Roman military units, not ancient legionnaires of course–although perhaps if we go back at midnight, who knows?
  • Not far from the Via Appia are large remnants of two of eventually eleven aqueducts that supplied Rome with water–a few are still in use in some parts of the city today.
  • It was too early to sample the food, but this trattoria is still run in the traditional way. The owner/chef/chief bottle washer buys fresh meat, vegetables, an so on daily, and then prepares food according to what he bought; so there’s no menu. Not very many like this left, I suspect.
  • We also visited the neighbourhood that for four hundred years from the mid sixteenth century was a Jewish ghetto.
  • And there were reminders of more recent shameful treatment in the stumbling stones dotted about the ghetto.
  • The hot, muggy weather hasn’t really been conducive to much in the way of stops for coffee, tea, and confections, let alone big lunches. We kept things simple again today and shared a Margherita pizza named, apparently, for Queen Margherita, wife of Umberto I.
  • I was able to compare a Roman spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino last night with the version at the old daSergio’s–the Roman version, without question. Trish had spaghetti too–a plain cheese and olive oil recipe, which was consumed with relish. We’ll be looking for something other than pasta tonight, I think.
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